Goodbye Horses review: an intimate neighbourhood wine bar

With FLO London’s appreciation for all things art related it was imperative we investigate this new addition to London’s dining scene where art, design, music, wining and dining all combine to make for an excellent neighbourhood wine bar serving tasty morsels.

Goodbye Horses is a new wine bar in London’s De Beauvoir neighbourhood. It has opened discretely, with no signage on its façade, at the end of a row of terraced houses on a quiet residential street. We found it by noticing a small group huddled outside in the small garden at the front waiting to be sat inside.

Goodbye Horses is here to liven up the hood with it’s spinning vinyl, organic wines and delicious small plate menu. The team behind it are Alex Young, George de Vos, previously of Brilliant Corners, and has certainly gained the attention it deserves and was buzzing the evening of our visit. It has been completely transformed to the point of making it hard to imagine the building was ever a pub in its previous life.

Goodbye Horses, Islington. Image credit Adam Kang

The room has the chill casual feel one tends to find in East London but with a touch of candle lit, hip romanticism.  As you enter, the bar begins with records spinning in front of shelves stacked high with vinyl albums, handpicked from Goodbye Horses’ extensive 4,000-plus library.

The rustic and artisanal details begin with a striking ten-metre-long timber bar crafted from a single oak tree. Part of the bar is available for counter dining, but part remains free of seating, making space for those that wish to simply pop in for an early evening glass of wine to experience the space in a communal and intimate way. The original brick walls, now coated with lime wash and roughcast have a rustic charm, while the cork ceiling and earthen floor, composed of raw clay and straw, add warmth and texture to the space.

Goodbye Horses, Islington. Hand mural by Lucy Stein. Image credit Adam Kang.

The standout feature by far is a hand painted mural by Lucy Stein which stretches the length of the bar. Her design for this piece was inspired by British folklore and mythology. The hand painted colourful mural, a cross between Marc Chagall and Picasso’s line drawings, is painted on a rice paper canvas light fixture, which creates a warm glowing focal point to the room. The bespoke piece is complemented by elegant floor-to-ceiling hand painted hessian curtains subtly lining the brick walls and were drawn across the windows as the evening turned dark, feeling like we were now in a chic speakeasy lock in. While the chairs were not the most comfortable, the ambiance certainly made you want to bunker down for a relaxing cosy evening.

The Goodbye Horses menu is in good hands with Head Chef Jack Coggins (formerly of the innovative Papi). He has created a succinct, well-crafted selection of dishes, focusing on high-quality ingredients and bold flavours. It is refreshingly unpretentious yet innovative. It’s the kind of menu that makes you want to say, “We’ll have one of each,” firstly because every dish looked like it was going to be a cracker, and secondly because it’s a concise menu with three snacks, seven small plates, and two desserts (plus cheese), meaning doing so would not have been as ridiculously outrageous as it sounds.

Goodbye Horses Islington. Image credit Sam Harris.

As an avid lover of oysters, I ordered what was described on the menu as “Carlingford Oyster & Strawberry”. While to my palate there was not a hint of strawberry this did not bother me in the slightest as it was a top oyster. Plump and fresh, with a mild sweetness. The Carlingford oyster seems to be the oyster of choice and can be found in most London restaurants of excellent repute.

My plus one was a vegetarian and there was plenty on the menu to satisfy her. The “Heirloom Cauliflower, Aubergines & Savoury” dish had a lovely charring to it and was packed with robust flavours. The “Beetroots, St Jude & Muscat Vinaigrette” was a masterclass of restraint with a wonderfully delicate balance of flavour. We also tried the “Egg Mayonnaise” to see what could be done with this simple classic French dish. The semi hardboiled egg is coated with a layer of mayonnaise and then was topped by string fries which was a nice touch, but we were underwhelmed and had us wishing we had ordered the Cheese Toastie whose reputation precedes it. Perhaps a version of the world champion 2023 egg mayonnaise served on a bed of celeriac mayonnaise, from La Grande Brasserie de Paris is something worth aiming for.

Heirloom Cauliflower, Aubergines & Savoury. Goodbye Horses, Islington. Photo by MTotoe.

If there is Steak Tartare on the menu, I will, nine times out of ten order it. It is the dish which prevents me from any chance of becoming vegetarian. Their version – “Raw beef, Smoked Chilli & Fennel” is fabulous, hand cut not too finely - just how I like it. The smokiness and spicy kick of this dish combined with the addition of crisp sourdough breadcrumbs put this in my top three of all time.  (If you must know the other two were at Ms G’s in Sydney who do a Vietnamese version and Glashuset Restaurang & Bar in Stockholm, their version incorporates crispy onions and parmesan). Adding a bit of luxury to the menu is Lobster Dolma, Sorrel & Snow White Corn. A dish of poached mousse like lobster wrapped in a cabbage leaf parcels was subtly delicious.

The wine list, curated by Natalie Nelles (formerly of P Franco), places a strong emphasis on natural, organic, and biodynamic options. With around 20 wines available by the glass and over 300 bottles to choose from, the selection is extensive and adventurous. One knows real thought and consideration has gone into this place when you notice their logo on the wine glasses which is not something you expect to see in this part of town. The team at Goodbye Horses guided us through options with great knowledge and if we were unsure we were able to have a little taste before deciding. 

Bread Treacle Ice Cream, Puffed Rice, Granola & Berries. Goodbye Horses, Islington. Photo by MTotoe.

Between us, we sampled three different wines by the glass: a juicy orange wine with notes of fresh apricot, an unfiltered white from the Cévennes mountains that was fresh and fruity, and, finally, a delightful rosé to pair with dessert.

To finish, we shared the “Bread Treacle Ice Cream, Puffed Rice, Granola & Berries.” Having received a proper ice cream machine for Christmas three years ago, I was especially intrigued by this flavour combination. It was a sensational blend of tart fruitiness, rich creaminess, and a hint of saltiness. I dare you not to lick the plate!

In short, by the end of this review, I find myself eager to return and try all the dishes I missed the first time around. Goodbye Horses is exactly the kind of place you want in your neighbourhood—a hidden gem offering a memorable blend of delicious food, great wine, and a lively atmosphere. Whether you’re after a quick glass of wine after work, a casual dinner with friends, or a cool date night spot, Goodbye Horses is well worth a visit.

Location: 21 Halliford St, London, N1 3HB. Website: goodbyehorses.london. Instagram: @goodbyehorsesldn.

Review by Natascha Milsom