The Parakeet, Kentish Town Review
Much like the birds after which it is named, the Parakeet Pub injects vibrance into Kentish Town.
Riz Shaikh, a local Kentish Towner and director of the Columbo group, has teamed with ex Brat chef Ben Allen to takeover the old Oxford Tavern in Kentish Town; together they’ve turned it into a trendy, indulgent beauty. Painted head to toe in olive green, an illustration of its titular bird glaring down at passers-by on Kentish Town Road, the Parakeet stands with confidence on the corner of Islip street – only a couple of minutes stroll from the tube, overground and Thameslink.
The front is very much a pub – punters can enjoy a drink from the gorgeous orange lit customised bar (which prices negronis at a relatively reasonable £9.50) and renowned house pickles that will elevate any afternoon pint. Tucked away booths offer a private alternative to the tables and are an ideal spot from which to take advantage of the expertly curated wine list.
At the back of the Parakeet is the jewel in its feathers: a mahogany panelled dining room framed by stained glass windows over which hangs a resplendent multi-coloured antique glass light dome. The space is a work of art – the dining experience is a special one before even having sat down.
The cooking is refined whilst uncomplicated, showcasing flavours made possible by the open fire grill visible at one end of the room. Hosted by a large blackboard up on the wall, the menu changes regularly but top-quality, locally sourced meat and fish paired with expertly crafted sauces are its bedrock resulting in bold and memorable dishes.
On our visit, we were particularly delighted by burnt apple as a sweet wintery addition to a perfectly rare cut of duck breast. Whilst the meat and fish rotate, the braised leeks with pecorino sauce and braised mushrooms seem to be a staple and we consider them absolutely mandatory – up there with the best mouthfuls of food we enjoyed in 2023. Similarly, the chocolate torte, sumptuously sweet, balanced by flavours of hazelnut and vanilla Chantilly is a dessert you don’t forget for a while and which has rightly earned its spot as a regular.
Whether you pop in for a pint and a £7 soup and sandwich at lunchtime, fancy a Tuesday night pub quiz with bar snacks that are far above average, or commit to a full whack special occasion dinner, the Parakeet is a surefire winner.
Location: The Parakeet, 256 Kentish Town Rd, London NW5 2AA. Website: theparakeetpub.com . Instagram: @the_parakeet
Words by Lucy Firestone
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