Highroad Social: Greenwich’s newest restaurant has hit the dining scene

On a sunny Friday we decided to make a day of it and journey to Greenwich from West London. We set off from Putney Pier via Uber Boat for the 90-minute trip to Greenwich to be tourists for the day in our beloved city. It is rather wonderful seeing the city from the water going under iconic bridges such as Albert Bridge, Westminster Bridge, Millennium Bridge and Tower Bridge and passing some iconic London Landmarks; Battersea Power Station, Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, the Millennium Wheel, The Shard, Tate Modern, Tower of London and the stunning modern skyline of the Square Mile and eventually  all the old shipping wharfs as we neared our destination.

The bar at Highroad Social by Steven Joyce.

We gave ourselves the afternoon to explore; Greenwich Market, the Queen’s House Museum which is free to visit. It may have been due to the school holidays, but we were met by an amusing costumed actress in The Great Hall (possibly a one-off event as it is the school holidays) She animatedly gave us a brief history about the house and then proceeded to teach us a Regency dance. For a moment we felt like we were on the set of Bridgerton. We then proceeded to view the galleries of maritime art and the famous beautiful smalt blue spiral Tulip Stairs, the first centrally unsupported stairs in England.

Lastly, we walked through Greenwich Park towards the Royal Observatory to take in the stunning views over Canary Wharf and London. The seed for our little ‘Tourist Day’ in Greenwich was to try Highroad Social (we are a food motivated bunch), new to the Greenwich dining scene restaurant and an extremely welcome addition. There isn’t really any other restaurant like it in the area. This local bistro will be a very attractive option for visitors to Greenwich and will be enthusiastically welcomed by locals, be it for a glass of wine with some of their sharing plates, a gathering of friends or for dessert after a movie.

Highroad Social by Steven Joyce.

There is a strong hospitality team involved here with the proprietor David O’Brien, formerly development director of Caprice Holdings, the kitchen is led by head chef Fionnan Flood formerly of The Chelsea Pig and Clark Crown (ex-Palomar) at the bar.

The bistro is a celebration of modern British cuisine using seasonal ingredients, responsibly sourced from the British Isles. Located under the Picturehouse Cinema occupying the space that was previously the Rivington it is not the most scenic street. But you need not worry about that, the renovated interiors more than make up for it. Upon entering the first thing you will notice is a display of Carlingford oysters at the other end of the room along a bar with fish scale shaped tiles along the back and as you head to the double height dining area you will see the bartender working his magic at the bar with counter seating, a smokey mirror and indoor plants exuding a sophisticated warmth with its colour palette. A very welcoming ambiance indeed. Outside a pleasant outdoor terrace has been created filled with comfortable seating with pink & white cushions and bordered with summery flower boxes.

Terrace at Highroad Social by Steven Joyce.

We began dinner with cocktails from a list that is well worth exploring as you are in very safe hands with Clark. Being a fan of Negronis, their Plum & Peach Negroni caught my eye, and it was an exceptionally good choice even if I say so myself. My dining partner had their unique signature “Olive” (a martini of sorts) which was another beautifully balanced cocktail, leaving us both wanting to return to work our way through their intriguing cocktail list.

Carlingford Oysters with Pomegranate Syrup. Highroad social, Greenwich. Photo by Natascha Milsom.

David is a wonderful host and guided us through our dinner choices starting with a couple of snacks; Saffron Crisps, Salt Cod, Sweet Green Chili Sauce, light subtle morsels to start us off which were delicately plated.  The Battered Smoked Londoner Sausage, Port Reduction, Crackling was a smashing dish full of flavour and likely to become a signature dish and should be kept on the menu at all costs. Cooking a sausage in batter is not something I have ever seen before, and probably something I’d tend to turn my nose up at, but it’s done with a light touch and the addition of puffed crackling gives it a very British flair.

The Raw Bar selection of the menu provided us with the next course of Carlingford Oysters with an interesting accoutrement of Pomegranate Syrup, Fennel Pollen. A triumph. The Heirloom Tomato, Grilled Peach and Marjoram had a smokey twist originating from a smoked oil (I had to ask as I couldn’t figure out the flavour profile). I could see from the menu that there is a smoked sour cream with the (raw) Hereford Beef on Toast dish and is probably a better combination.  Good quality fresh summer tomatoes are packed full of flavour and don’t need to be messed around with too much.

For mains we shared the Dover Sole. Caviar Sauce, Sea Vegetables and their Shallot Tarte Tatin, British Ricotta, Thyme from the Large Feasting Plates. The Dover Sole is a beautifully executed dish. The Tarte Tatin is a great option for vegetarians and was wonderfully flavorsome but personally I would have preferred the shallots sliced a touch thinner to increase the caramelization and further soften the texture.

The diverse international wine list deserves a mention showcasing many countries and championing independent wineries both new and old from Argentina, Georgia, Lebanon and Australia to name just a few.

Summer on a plate: Elderflower Jelly, Evesham Pearl Strawberry, Almond Cake. Highroad Social, Greenwich. Photo by Natascha Milsom

The dessert menu had a sumptuous selection of very British desserts such as Sticky Toffee Ginger Pudding, Treacle Tart, Marmalade Bread and Butter Pudding which were perhaps a touch too heavy on a hot summer’s day. It would be nice to see something like an Eton Mess or Knickerbocker Glory on the menu. We ordered Elderflower Jelly, Evesham Pearl Strawberry, Almond Cake which was quite simply summer on a plate, stunning looking and generous, easily shared by two. Not realising this we also had three scoops of very delicious sorbets. The lemon & ginger sorbet was a wonderful combination after a big meal and the blackcurrant had a moreish depth of flavour. All washed down with a delicious Cava. We left having had a very enjoyable evening full and satisfied indeed.

It is early days for this restaurant barely open for a month, but I can only see it getting better and better as it is given David O’Brien’s continued care and attention. And if, like us, you would like to make a day of it you won’t be disappointed. 

Location: Highroad Social, 178 Greenwich High Road SE10 8NN.  Instagram: @highroadsocial. Website: highroadsocial.com.

Words by Natascha Milsom